Stewed dark fruits | Anise | Black currant | Red Hot candy | Light citrus | Bold & punchy

Heavy raisin | Anise | Dried apricot | Cinnamon | Nice mouthfeel

Big rye spice | Raisin | Fennel | Sweet caramel-honey like note develops on the backend

Thomas H. Handy is the youngest whiskey in Buffalo Trace’s Antique Collection, and along with William Larue Weller, fairly consistent from year to year. With a few exceptions, Thomas H. Handy is often highlighted by notes of raisin, citrus, cinnamon, and rye spice. At its proof that typically hovers around 125-130, it’s a bold whiskey that doesn’t pull any punches. Yet at the same time, it’s typically very drinkable, and offers enough to distinguish itself from the growing number of high proof ryes in the marketplace.

This year’s version begins with a bold and punchy nose, which is overwhelmed by ethanol immediately after pouring, necessitating at least a few minutes in the glass to open up and shed its initial potency. Stewed dark fruits, anise, black currant, Red Hot candy, and a familiar citrus note comprise the whiskey’s bold introduction. On the palate, heavy raisin creates an undertone that’s accented by anise, dried apricot, and cinnamon, which has a nice body and mouthfeel. Bigger spice develops at the onset of the finish, which is straightforward in the form of rye, and is complemented by raisin, fennel, and a sweet caramel-honey like note that develops and lingers along with tapering spice.

Some describe the overall flavor range offered by straight bourbons as fairly narrow (compared to other whiskeys such as Scotch or American single malt), and I would say the flavor range found across straight ryes is even more narrow by comparison. This is most likely due to the fact that rye is a spice-forward grain, which often means the flavor profiles with straight ryes are driven by their spicy notes, which can draw much of the whiskeys’ focus. Being a barrel proof rye was highly unique at one point, but as we have seen an increasing number of barrel proof rye whiskeys come to market, Thomas H. Handy’s 6 year age and 120+ proof point has become increasingly less unique. With that being said, its flavor profile continues to be a one that demonstrates a fairly high degree of complexity for a barrel proof rye, and I’ve yet to find any other that can offer an even remotely similar combination of flavors.

Like 2022’s edition, 2023’s Thomas H. Handy’s flavor profile is on point for the brand, but doesn’t quite reach the absolute highest point we know Buffalo Trace is capable of for this bottle. It’s a fair consolation given the bar has been set so high in the past, and makes for a solid overall showing.